Fabric development
Fabric developed for the garment, woven at our own mill
A buyer who can specify the fabric controls the handfeel, drape, durability and cost of the product. We weave in-house on computerized japanese jet looms, so fabric can be built to your specification instead of chosen from a converter's stock list.
What we control
The properties that define a woven fabric
| Composition | Fibre content and blend ratio, e.g. 100% cotton, 65/35 poly-cotton, cotton-linen |
|---|---|
| Yarn count | Fineness of warp and weft yarns, which sets smoothness and weight |
| Construction | Ends and picks per inch, which set density, opacity and strength |
| Weave | Plain, twill, basket (oxford), duck, ripstop, dobby |
| Weight | GSM or oz/yd², from lightweight shirting to heavy canvas |
| Width | Usable width, selvedge to selvedge, planned for marker efficiency |
| Finish | Dyeing, printing, softening, peaching, water-repellent and other finishes to your requirement |
Development process
From reference to bulk fabric
Brief or reference
You send the end use, a target specification or a reference fabric. We analyse a swatch for composition, count, construction and weight.
Construction proposal
We propose yarns, weave, ends and picks, width and finish that meet the end use and your price target.
Lab dips and strike-offs
Colour is matched to your Pantone or physical standard and submitted for approval. Prints and embroidery are struck off.
Sample length
A sample length or swatch is woven and finished for handfeel, weight and shrinkage approval.
Bulk weaving
Approved qualities are woven on our computerized jet looms, inspected and released to cutting or packed as fabric.
Guide
Not sure which construction to specify?
Start with the end use and a reference you like. Our guide compares the three most common woven constructions for shirts and bottoms.
Poplin vs twill vs oxfordStart an order
Send a swatch. We'll tell you how to weave it.
Post a reference fabric or send its specification. We analyse it and propose a construction, colour route and finish.